Chicago Theatre Review

Chicago Theatre Review

Superior Donuts

November 7, 2025 Reviews No Comments

by Colin Douglas

Possibilities, People and Pleasing Pastries

When life is as bitterly cold and gridlocked as a Chicago winter in Uptown, sometimes the only thing that keeps a body going is possibilities…and people…and maybe some pleasing deep-fried pastries. At least that’s the philosophy that one optimistic young man lives by in SUPERIOR DONUTS. Written by Tony and Pulitzer Prize Award-winning playwright Tracy Letts (AUGUST: OSAGE COUNTY,  BUG, KILLER JOE), this is probably his most mainstream play. His slice-of-Chicago-life comedy-drama had it’s highly-acclaimed world premiere at the Steppenwolf Theatre in 2008, where Letts is also a company member. That production went on to Broadway a year later; and in 2017 CBS aired a situation comedy, based upon the popular play. 

Typical Tracy Letts, this play is liberally peppered with profanity and violence. The story primarily centers around character relationships, rather than plot. The playwright’s genius, however, is his compelling creation of a tightly knit community of realistic, flesh-and-blood people who we can all recognize. Under Director John Mossman’s determined and dauntless guidance and staging, Artistic Home’s production boasts a truly magnificent cast.

The company is led by talented Ensemble Member, Scott Westerman (TIME OF YOUR LIFE, WEDDING BOND), who portrays a resourceful but reticent Arthur Pryszbyszewski. Mr. Westerman has created his character with intelligence, nuance and a quiet sensitivity that’s sublime. Arthur’s merely a middle-aged hippie who likes to keep to himself, a second generation Polish immigrant who’s proud of his skill at making old-fashioned donuts from scratch. Although the Uptown Chicago neighborhood has changed considerably (Starbucks has taken most of his business), both Arthur and his unpretentious coffee shop have remained the same. But Arthur’s past has left him a cautious character, isolated and resistant to the influence of family and friends. 

Suddenly, into his quiet world bursts a loud, fast-talking and optimistic young African-American kid named Franco Wicks. He’s played by the engaging and gifted John N. Williams (HAIRSPRAY at the Beverly Arts Center), making his auspicious Artistic Home debut. Energetic and filled with dreams, Franco is looking for a job to make ends meet. He’s also determined, once hired, to bring some vitality and innovative ideas to both Superior Donuts and Arthur’s personal life. All of this, despite the older man’s reluctance. But Franco also has a secret past that interferes with his personal aspirations.  

A community of charismatic characters wander in and out of Arthur’s tiny cafe. They include two members of the Chicago Police Department, Officer James Bailey (a good-natured and amiable Kevin Aoussou) and Officer Randy Osteen (peerlessly played by lovely Kristin Collins, with a perfect blend of detached distance and concealed caring). We also run into Russian immigrant and wheeler-dealer, Max Tarasov (played with hysterical histrionics by Reid Coker, showcasing his impressive dialect skills) and Lady, a sweet homeless woman and mother, portrayed with heaps of heart and humanity by Barbara Roeder Harris. Adam Schulmerich and Michael Bayler provide a mess of menace and antagonism as loan shark thugs Luther and Kevin; and as Kiril, Max’s robust, young nephew, John Wehrman creates a hard-to-miss hero.

In today’s world, continually riddled with insufferable strife and chronic conflict, it’s comforting and recommended that we spend a couple hours in a warm, intimate theatre with these memorable characters. Like many of us, the Chicagoans in this play are all learning to face their problems with courage and confidence. Armed with a shared strength and profound empathy for each other, Arthur, Franco and their friends can see a bright future ahead. And the reason they’re able to find a modicum of comfort is because of the possibilities, the people and the pleasing pastries sold at SUPERIOR DONUTS. 

Highly Recommended

Reviewed by Colin Douglas

Presented November 2-December 6 by Artistic Home at the Den Theatre, in their Bookspan Venue, 1331 N. Milwaukee Ave., Chicago.

Tickets are available in person at the Den Theatre box office, by calling 773-697-3830 or by going to www.theartistichome.org.

Additional information about this and other area productions can be found by visiting www.theatreinchicago.com.


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