Comfort Food

Dhaba on Devon Avenue

Welcome to an established ethnic restaurant, located on Chicago’s Devon Avenue on the North Side of the city. It’s called the Dhaba Canteen, and it’s part of an exhilarating island in the city that’s locally known as Little India. Dhaba, the program tells us, is “a hole-in-the-wall or roadside restaurant in Pakistan and Northwest India.” Since the 1980’s, American immigrant restaurant owner and Chef, Neeraj Madhwani, has been meticulously recreating the Sindhi recipes he found in his beloved  grandmother’s diary. He’s always prided himself on cooking authentic Indian comfort food that bring his diners fond memories of their homeland. 

Over the last 30 years Devon Avenue has changed quite a bit, but Neeraj is in denial. He believes that his customers still want the same Sindhi dishes. Since Rita was fourteen years old she’s assisted in the restaurant, working by her father’s side and eventually becoming a talented sous chef. They’ve both been aided by immigrant, Luz Fuentes, a gifted line cook and Dominican Republic “Dreamer.” But Rita has realized that Devon Avenue is gentrifying, and many of the area residents have relocated. Current customers are interested in ordering far different foods. Then, to make matters worse, Neeraj is in the early stages of Parkinson’s disease. Added to his personal dilemma are all the economic hardships that have resulted in the restaurant facing foreclosure.      

While Rita has experimented creating some delicious new Asian fusion dishes, with the idea of expanding the restaurant’s menu, her father has frustrated his daughter by squelching her efforts. In the midst of a bleak financial future, there’s also political pressure. The year is 2017, when President Trump, in his first term, cancelled the DACA program (Deferred Action for Childhood Arrivals), a policy that had been implemented earlier by President Obama. The program protected eligible, undocumented young adults in America, who were the children of deportation, by providing them an opportunity to work legally in the United States. Now Luz’s future is in jeopardy, as well.

Coming to their rescue are two family members who have very different ideas for Neeraj’s restaurant. Kindly and amiable Adil, who’s an entrepreneur with a big bank account, generously suggests he might be persuaded to become a silent partner with his brother-in-law. Neeraj turns him down. Then Sindhu, his eldest daughter, who’s married, pregnant and living in Seattle, pays a visit to Chicago. She’s become a success in the corporate world. Sindhu arrives with the conviction that her father should absolutely simply sell the restaurant. But then what would happen to Rita and Luz, who have become romantically involved?

Enjoying its World Premiere, Madhuri Shekar’s play about family traditions, immigrants and food is skillfully directed by Chay Yew, the former Artistic Director of Victory Gardens. In a partnership between Writers Theatre and TimeLine Theatre Company, it’s only natural that Yew would Direct this production. You see, DHABA ON DEVON AVENUE was originally scheduled to be presented by Chay Yew at Victory Gardens when COVID shut the theatre down in 2020. This new production is warm and homey, yet filled with a myriad of family disagreements and dilemmas that make the play universal. While this is a story about immigrants from a specific culture, living in the heart of Chicago’s Indian Community, their conflicts and problems are ubiquitous and worldwide. We can all identify with experiencing financial difficulties, the effects of aging, unexpected health issues and family strife. The addition of a romantic conflict makes this 90-minute one-act play even more all-inclusive.

The cast is excellent. Talented Anish Jethmalani (THE LEHMAN TRILOGY at TimeLine, A CHRISTMAS CAROL at the Goodman) is a force of nature as Neeraj. The character’s reluctance to change with the times and his anger and frustration with the many forces working against him are so relatable. For theatergoers of a certain age, this is especially true. As his daughter Rita, the always wonderful Tina Munoz Pandya (THE MATCHBOX MAGIC FLUTE at the Goodman, LONDON ROAD with Shattered Globe Theatre) is the heart and soul of this production. Audiences will see themselves in this character’s conflicting desire for independence and to stretch her creative muscles, while still pleasing her father and earning his approval. Ms. Pandya is subtle and sublime in creating a likable young Every Woman who is, at heart, just like each one of us.

The supporting cast is equally terrific. Isa Arciniegas makes Luz Fuentes feel as familiar as that young woman you talk to on the L, or your favorite barista who sometimes shares her dreams for success. A shining star in Remy Bumppo’s LOVE SONG and a memorable ensemble member of the Goodman’s wonderful production of THE WOLVES, Ms. Arciniegas’s portrayal of a young Latina immigrant who’s open to a relationship but has more important matters at stake is relatable. As Rita’s successful, married sister, Arya Daire plays Sindhu with a professional crispness and shrewd intellectual prowess that’s only melted down by her sister’s cooking. Looking great in Christine Pascual’s colorfully tailored pantsuits, Ms. Daire will be remembered for her excellent work in TimeLine’s A DISAPPEARING NUMBER and BIG LAKE, BIG CITY at Lookingglass Theatre. And making his auspicious Writers Theatre debut, Mueen Jahan leaves a big impression as genial Adil. Seen around the country in several productions of HOMEBODY/KABUL, as well as in the short-lived Broadway musical, BOMBAY DREAMS, Mr. Jahan is a powerful performer whom we hope won’t be a stranger in future Chicago theatricals.

Staged upon Lauren M. Nichols’ discriminatingly detailed Scenic Design, everything happens in the well-appointed kitchen of the Dhaba Canteen. Through the service window we sneak a glimpse of the dining room. But Ms. Nichols’ authentic-looking, well-stocked Set is a culinary kingdom of food preparation, whose spicy fragrances often waft out into the audience. The environment of Devon Avenue is made even more realistic through Christine A. Binder’s Lighting Design, as well as through a palette of believable Sound, created by Eric Backus.

Madhuri Shekar’s latest play, beautifully Directed by Chay Yew, touches our hearts with its focus on family. Sure, this may be a group of first- and second-generation South Asians, all of different generations, goals and temperaments, but it will ring true with every audience member. DHABA ON DEVON AVENUE is the theatrical version of a delicious helping of Comfort Food.                   

Highly Recommended

Reviewed by Colin Douglas

Presented June 19-July 27 by Writers Theatre,  325 Tudor Court, Glencoe, Illinois.

Tickets are available in person at the box office, by calling 847-242-6000 or by going to www.writerstheatre.org.

Additional information about this and other area productions can be found by visiting www.theatreinchicago.com